Visiting Svaneti in May

Georgia 2024 part 3

High up in the mountains of Georgia is Svaneti, a region with ancient villages surrounded by natural beauty. It’s unique for its hundreds of Svan towers: ancient defence towers, some of them over a thousand years old. The journey here is a long road trip over some bad roads. Still, it’s possible to get here by one of the public minibuses called “marshrutka’s’’, and independent hiking is easy due to the many great hiking trails. This makes it an excellent backpacking destination. I first visited Svaneti in the summer in 2015 and always wanted to come back. This time I returned in spring, but wasn’t sure whether this would be a good time to go. Spring is the rainiest time in Georgia, which makes some areas inaccessible due to wide rivers, floods or fallen rocks. Roads and trails at high altitude are still inaccessible due to snow. I decided to go here anyway. Here’s my experience in the middle of May 2024.

Mestia

The town of Mestia is the gateway to Svanenti. Small planes fly here from Kutaisi and Tbilisi, though the many online stories about cancellations made me opt for the minibus from Zugdidi (more on this below under “practical info’’). After a three hour ride I reached Mestia, situated in a valley at 1500 meters altitude and surrounded by snowcapped mountains. Dozens of Svan towers are scattered around the houses. I visited one that was now a small museum, where I was greeted with coffee, a glass of wine and a short tour around. Due to a lack of defensive walls in Svaneti, these towers served as shelters and lookouts in times of danger and were used as storage during peacetime. Walking around ancient Mestia is already worth the trip to Svaneti, and there were not many tourists around in May.

Ushguli

The most popular destination beyond Mestia is Ushguli, a village with many Svan Towers on the foot of the 5193 meters tall Mount Shkara. Having already visited Ushguli in 2015, I asked other travellers in Mestia what it was like this time of year. It is indeed possible to visit Ushguli in May. But since parts of the road to Ushguli flood in spring, it’s advised to go there on a tour by four-wheel drive. Unfortunately it’s not recommended to do the multiday hike from Mestia to Ushguli in May. I already read online this month is too cold and too wet for this trek, which includes crossing a wide river, and locals and travellers I met confirmed the track would at least be very challenging this time of year.

Hiking near Mestia

Still there are hiking possibilities in May, but be prepared for rain. Mountain weather can change quickly. In two days hiking near Mestia I went through rain, hail, snowfall, fog and later so much sunshine I continued in a T-shirt.

The first day I took a taxi to the ancient village Tsvirmi and hiked back the 18 kilometres to Mestia via Ieli. This was a suitable hike for a rainy and foggy day, because it followed mostly good paths without steep inclines. It was still nice to walk through the old, quiet villages, with livestock wandering freely and without another tourist in sight. The few times the fog cleared I saw great views of the valleys below. Near Mestia the route followed a major road, where the first driver overtaking me offered me a ride. I wish I accepted, because for the last 1.5 kilometres I followed a forest trail full of mud and water.

The most popular day hike from Mestia is via the Mestia Cross to the Koruldi Lakes. As the day started foggy I already thought of staying in town, but when sun and blue skies came in I walked up to the cross. The path to the cross is an accessible, though steep, trail with some great views of Mestia and the surrounding mountains. I saw no one, apart from a group of cows that came towards me on a narrow part of the path along a steep drop. I climbed a bit to let the cows pass underneath me. Once at the top I saw the first other tourists. There is a road to this view as well, hence people can make it here by taxi. The cross is just above the treeline at 2171 meters altitude. I continued further through a landscape now covered in snow. Having booked a transfer out of Mestia later that day, I turned back to Mestia at 2400 meters. I didn’t have time to reach the lakes, but was glad the changing weather made this hike possible.

The verdict

Svaneti is a highlight of Georgia. Despite spring being the rainy season, it’s still worth visiting in May. It is possible to see the amazing Svan towers of Mestia and other villages this time of year. Hiking options are more limited compared to the summer months, though. And while some hikes are doable in May, weather can influence your experience. Having visited Svaneti in both seasons, I’d prefer summer over spring here. But if you’re already travelling around Georgia in May: don’t skip Svaneti.

Practical info on travelling here

Getting to Mestia

The mini-van (marshrutka) from Zugdidi to Mestia takes about three hours and costs 34 lari in 2024. In spring, the low-season, the earliest one leaves Zugdidi at 12.00. But get there sooner to be sure of a seat. Zugdidi can be reached by train or marshrutka from Tbilisi. In May 2024 I met travellers who took the Tbilisi-Zugdidi train in the morning and got a marshrutka to Mestia the same day. There is also a direct marshrutka between Mestia and Tbilisi (in 2015 it took me twelve hours), but I can’t confirm whether it goes in spring. There are shared transfers between Mestia and Kutaisi that can be booked in advance. I got from Mestia to Kutaisi with Budget Georgia, booked via Viator.

Getting around Svaneti

There is no public transport beyond Mestia. Other villages can be reached by walking, hitchhiking, taking a taxi or joining a tour. Through my guesthouse I found a taxi from Mestia to Tsvirmi costing me 80 lari one way, a return trip would have been 100 lari.

Hiking from Tsvirmi to Mestia

The hiking route from Tsvirmi to Mestia via Ieli and Heshkili is easy with good paths and roads, making it a doable option when the weather isn’t great. Only the last 1.5 kilometres close to Mestia was boggy, so you can consider following the main road at the end or even hitchhiking the last bit. Trails here are well marked and be found on maps.me and Komoot.

Hiking to the cross and beyond

There are two trails from Mestia to the cross: seen from the town there is an option to the left (west) and an option to the right (east). I took the trail to the right because it was supposed to be less steep and still beautiful. In May there was a thick layer of snow just beyond the cross at around 2200 meters altitude. The trail from Mestia to the cross and Koruldi Lakes is on maps.me and Komoot.

Travelling around Georgia

Read my blogpost a guide to visiting Georgia for more advice on travelling around Georgia.

CaucasusArjan MookOctober 8, 2024