Introducing Tbilisi

Georgia 2024 part 2

The Republic of Georgia is one of my favourite destinations. For such a small country it has a lot to offer: mountains, historical sights, a great cuisine, a unique culture and, though declining with the increasing number of tourists, great hospitality. It’s also very accessible to backpackers, with many hostels and guesthouses and plenty of affordable options to travel around, including a big network of minibuses (‘’marshrutkas’’). The capital Tbilisi is a great place to explore Georgia. From here it is easy to travel to all corners of the country, and the mountain town of Kazbegi and historical Mtscheta are even a day trip away. But the city itself has a lot to offer as well. After visiting Georgia six times before, I still enjoyed coming back to Tbilisi in 2024. Here’s an introduction to Tbilisi, based on my personal experiences.

Where to go

One third of Georgia, over 1.2 million people, lives in Tbilisi. It’s in the East of the country, on the banks of the Kura river. The most interesting area is the old town. This labyrinth of colourful houses on the west bank of the river leads up to the Narikala Citadel. On the foot of the hill are the old bathhouses, the most striking being the 17th century Orbeliani bathhouse with a beautiful façade of blue tiles. Further uphill, behind the fortress, is the botanical garden. This is a massive park with a vast collection of plants and even more waterfalls, making you forget you are in a big city.

A short climb through the old town, or a ride by cable car, goes to Narikala Citadel with views of the city. But my favourite viewpoint is actually across the river in the neighbourhood Avlabari. After crossing the Metekhi bridge it’s just a short walk up to the 13th century Metekhi Church and a fantastic view of the old town. Avlabari lacks other sights apart from the new massive Sameba Cathedral, but is a cheaper area than the touristy old town. And unlike the old town, which is hard to reach by car and lacks a metro station, Avlabari is well connected to the rest of Tbilisi.

Tbilisi’s major avenue is Rustaveli, just north of the old town. The Georgian National Museum and Museum of Fine Arts are here. Like Avlabari, it’s easy to get a taxi or metro from Rustaveli. One metro-stop further is Fabrika. This once-abandoned factory has been a cultural centre with bars and a hostel since 2017. I met fellow travellers who loved Fabrika, though I think it’s a bit overpriced compared to other parts of the city.

Georgia has a great and diverse cuisine, and Tbilisi is an excellent place to try it. Shardeni Street in the old town and David Aghmashenebeli Avenue near Fabrika are full with restaurants, but you can find good places scattered around the city. Don’t worry if you arrive in the middle of the night, as there is always something open. The Georgian budget restaurant Pasanauri near Maidan Bazar is open 24/7 for example.

Getting around and staying safe

Tbilisi has a good metro system with stops near the central railway station and major bus stations. The apps Bolt and Yandex Go are handy for getting a taxi in Tbilisi. I don’t recommend hailing a taxi on the street because some drivers rip tourists off. This is especially the case at Tbilisi airport. While I paid about 30 lari (€ 10) for a Bolt-ride to the airport and 50 lari (€ 16) for an airport pickup through my hotel, I met a traveller who paid a taxi driver one hundred dollars for a drive to the centre. A hostel owner once told me about taxi drivers even demanding 200 dollars at the airport, so be careful.

Exploring the city on foot is a great option too. Tbilisi is quite pedestrian friendly, especially the old town, though most drivers usually don’t stop at pedestrian crossings. I experienced Tbilisi as safe as western European cities. Of course visitors still need common sense like in any big city, but walking around is fine.

Tbilisi’s vibe

During my first visit ten years ago I was amazed how friendly people in Tbilisi were. Unlike in other big cities worldwide, many people here would be welcoming to tourists, start a chat and offer help. In recent years I experienced most locals became more indifferent, sometimes even rude, to foreign visitors. I can understand this: tourism here has exploded in a decade, and nowadays plenty of tourists and backpackers visit Tbilisi throughout the year. Political tensions might have changed the atmosphere as well. Still I met friendly locals during my last visit, especially outside of the busy city centre, and Tbilisi is definitely not as crowded with tourists like Amsterdam or Barcelona. Tbilisi is excellent for a city-trip, and a great base to see the rest of Georgia. And when going further off-the-beaten-path in Georgia, you might experience more of its famous hospitality.

CaucasusArjan MookOctober 10, 2024