Introducing Kyrgyzstan
Bishkek, Ala Archa, Issyk-Ata, Song-Kul and Issyk-Kul
Visited in August 2016, written in October 2022
Once part of the ancient Silk Road, Central Asia is increasingly popular with tourists. Cities like Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand in Uzbekistan and Turkestan in Kazakhstan are famous for their old madrassas, mosques and palaces. Only a decade ago, the region was far off the beaten path as strict rules made it difficult to travel here independently. With the exception of Turkmenistan, travelling around Central Asia became easier. One of the first Central Asian countries to open up more was Kyrgyzstan. Nowadays Kyrgyzstan is very well covered by blogs and guidebooks. Here’s my experience in August 2016.
In and around Bishkek
Kyrgyz people are originally nomadic, and therefore Kyrgyzstan has less historical landmarks compared to neighbouring Uzbekistan. But what it lacks in historical heritage it makes up with nature. This applies to Bishkek as well, the capital that was largely built during the Soviet era. Despite housing over a million people, Bishkek has few interesting sights. But I found it a good place to stay for five days so I could enjoy the surrounding region. Mountains cover 94% of the country and can already be visited on day trips from Bishkek. The closest place to enjoy nature is the Ala Archa National Park a one hour drive away. I got here by sharing a taxi with fellow travellers. We walked upwards to see the 70 metres tall Ak-Sai Waterfall, taking a taxi back to Bishkek the same day. There are more hikes in Ala Archa, and some travellers I met camped there as well. Another great day trip is Issyk-Ata, two hours by bus from Bishkek, where a trail goes through a valley past a fast flowing river, small waterfall and wild horses. To experience the region’s history, it’s worth taking a public minivan to Tokmok to see the Burana Tower, a minaret from the 11th century. Surrounding it are ‘’balbals’’: Turkic stone carvings of over a millennium old.
Bishkek
Ala Archa
Issyk-Ata
Song-Kul and Issyk-Kul
Travelling around Kyrgyzstan independently can be challenging. English is rarely spoken, so it’s useful to know at least basic Russian or get a translation-app. Corruption is a problem as well. I met several travellers driving around Kyrgyzstan, and they were full of stories of policemen demanding bribes. Public transport is mostly by ‘’marshrutka’’, the minivans also used elsewhere in the former Soviet Union. They usually leave once they are full, which can be time-consuming. This is all part of the adventure of course, and I found Kyrgyzstan still accessible for independent travellers. A great way to enjoy the remote areas is through one of the Community Based Tourism (CBT) offices, which can arrange anything from drivers and homestays to horse rides and treks. After staying in Bishkek on my own, my girlfriend Nicole joined me to go further into Kyrgyzstan. We went to other towns by marshrutka, and visited more remote places with the help of CBT.
On the road to Song-Kul
Near Song-Kul
One of these remote places is Song-Kul, an alpine lake at over 3000 metres altitude. In summer shepherds bring their livestock here. When we arrived by four-wheel drive we could see hundreds of horses. There are no buildings at Song-Kul, only the temporary traditional tents called ‘’Yurts’’ for the shepherds and visiting tourists. Surrounding the lake are peaks over 4000 metres high. It is an unique experience to stay in a Yurt so high up and remote, surrounded by animals.
Yurts at Song-Kul
Near Song-Kul
Issyk-Kul
From inaccessible Song-Kul we travelled onwards to very accessible Issyk-Kul. With a length of 178 kilometres and a width up to 60 kilometres , this is Kyrgyzstan’s largest lake. There are mountains on both sides of the lake. We stayed at Bokonbayevo, one of the many towns along its shore. There is not much to see in the town itself, but it does have a CBT-office. Through them we organised a drive to nearby hiking trails. We slept in a Yurt-camp just outside of town near the lake beach. It was not as wild as Song-Kul though. There was electricity, a road to town and even a bar on the site. I remember a German tour-group arriving by private bus carrying big trolley suitcases. It showed how much Kyrgyzstan opened up for tourism: it draws all kinds of travellers, from independent backpackers to people who enjoy the comfort of a tour group.
Further reading
In 2022 we returned to Central Asia, travelling around Uzbekistan. Read here about our travels around Uzbekistan.